Modern British gastropub Carnaby at Robertson Quay is an illustrious showcase of familiar British flavours that may just change your mind about that much maligned cuisine.
British cuisine generally gets sneered upon, but here’s one chef who’s set his mind and skillet to garnering appreciation for the food of his native Britain. Chef Adam Penney, formerly the executive chef of Potato Head Singapore, has taken over the former Three Buns location at Robertson Quay in partnership with the folks from food truck burger specialists The Goodburger to create modern British diner Carnaby.
Named for Carnaby Street, it draws inspiration from the vibrant street in London’s SoHo district that has played such a significant role in British culture, particularly its influence on mod subculture during the Swinging Sixties, the punk movement of the ’70s, and also Brit pop of the ’90s. You’ll see a lot of that here in Carnaby, such as that one wall emblazoned with vinyls – featuring British musicians such as The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, Suede, and Oasis – on exposed chipboard, much like a record store of old.
The space is modern but unpretentious. There’s an intended rawness in some parts, but by and large the dining room of the 85-seater is cosy, warm, and inviting. Against this backdrop plays a quintessentially British music playlist which, if you had misspent much of your youth during the ’90s like I did, will have you rocking and bopping in nostalgic appreciation.
Then there’s the food. The menu at Carnaby may look like that of any boring British pub, but it’s anything but. Chef Adam is stridently adamant about using the right produce for his dishes, and even makes all his sauces – ketchup, tartare, and watermelon hot sauce – from scratch.
It shows.
Chances are you’ll bypass the Ox Tomato Salad, but that would be a grave mistake. These Italian tomatoes are beautiful ones, sliced and marinated, then tossed with lovage and shallots, along with an absolute moreish Welsh cheddar that accentuates the tomato’s sweetness. Order this so you don’t look back in anger later.
Or the Smoked Herring Kipper Pate. Kippers are the quintessential British breakfast of a bygone era, but those bony bastards can be a pain to eat. Here Chef Adam turns it into a creamy, heavenly dip that you spoon on Melba toast and inhale.
Then there’s Smoky Fish Pie, a country house classic. Here chunks of smoked haddock, golden snapper, leeks and carrots – and studded with mustard seeds – combine for most homely flavours, smothered under a creamy potato mash crust. The Steak & Guinness Pie is an absolute must, its robust filling of tender braised chuck and tendon giving it a luscious, lip-smacking quality. It’s covered with a pithivier-like puff pastry instead of the usual hot water crust, but it works.
Of course, you can’t run a British pub, however modern, and not offer fish and chips. Carbany’s version is Golden Beer Battered Fish & Chips, featuring locally farmed golden snapper enrobed in a shatteringly crisp golden crust. The dill-lashed housemade tartare sauce is absolute divine with the fish, as is the watermelon hot sauce (make sure you ask for some). Do note though, that golden snapper – or ‘ang zhor’ in our part of the world – is chunkier and meatier than the usual cod or haddock, which can take getting used to.
The Carnaby Burger is a no brainer for burger lovers. After all it combines the chops of both The Goodburger and Chef Adam’s former Three Buns background. This comes as a hearty, well-grilled beef patty along with English cheddar sandwiched between pillowy soft broiche buns, slathered with a piquant house sauce. Delectable.
That said I disapprove of the twiggy steak fries accompanying the burger as well as the fish & chips. But I suppose soggy thick-cut British-style chips are not quite a thing for local palates.
Desserts are a must. The ‘Allo Treacle’ Tart, in particular. A sophisticated remake of the classc, this sees a sugar crust base lined with salted caramel filling and topped with a dollop of chantilly cream. Otherwise there’s the IPA Trifle, which cleverly layers beer-flavoured custard and jelly for a bittersweet symphony, a fun Eton Mess remade into a sundae, or the Sticky Toffee Date Pudding, which is an indulgent slab of pudding smothered in an opulent butterscotch sauce and vanilla ice cream that’ll have you slurping to the end. Because, you know, brown sugar.
If there’s one thing Carnaby needs to work on, it’s its drinks programme. No right proper British pub worth its salt has just one beer on draft, even if it’s a valiant BrewDog holding the fort. Where’s the Guinness? But they’re working on it, they tell me.
In the meantime, there are some darn good wine options by the glass, including an off-dry Mosel Riesling and a Clare Valley Shiraz.
I’d make a slight return.
Carnaby
Address 60 Robertson Quay, #01-01, Singapore 238252 (Google Maps link)
Opening Hours 12.30am to 2.30pm and 5pm to 10.30pm Tuesdays to Fridays; 11am to 10.30pm on Saturdays and Sundays; closed on Mondays
Tel (65) 8890 7843
Web www.carnaby.sg
Instagram @carnabysg
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