Contemporary Filipino gastronomy in Singapore gets a sorely needed boost with the opening of hayop at Amoy Street.
Filipino cuisine, despite its rich heritage and diverse flavours, for some reason doesn’t quite get as much international recognition as, say, its more illustrious Southeast Asian neighbours such as Thailand and Vietnam. But that’s slowly changing. A growing Filipino diaspora across the world is increasingly exerting their affluence and soft power, and along with it, a burgeoning hunger for Filipino flavours.
And that’s where hayop comes in.
Opened by Manila-based hospitality outfit The Moment Group – which runs Din Tai Fung franchises across the Philippines as well as their own celebrated homegrown concepts such as Manam – in collaboration with two Singapore partners, hayop weaves together the best aspects of homestyle Filipino flavours into a convivial experience that’s more than capable of going toe to toe with the best of contemporary Asian dining.
Even its location is a declaration of intent, nestled as it is among a bevy of award-winning restaurants and bars along the Amoy Street shophouse stretch in the heart of Singapore’s Central Business District. We haven’t seen a Filipino restaurant like it. The space itself is cosy and inviting, the timber and rattan-like screens, intimate lamp lighting, and leather accents all combining for a most welcoming feel.
But what strikes you the most are the beaming smiles of the diners as they tuck into their repast. The looks and nostalgia on the faces of expatriate Filipinos as they masticate and reminisce on the flavours of their homeland. That flash of surprise and delight on those trying Filipino flavours – sometimes sweet, sometimes savoury, sometimes tangy, and often all these altogether – for the first time.
Like Kinilaw, the Philippines’ version of ceviche. hayop elevates that fisherman’s treat with sashimi-grade amberjack, first cured in spiced coconut vinegar and then dressed with chilli garlic oil and salt for a riot of flavour.
The Lumpia – or Chinese-inspired spring rolls – get reinvented here into a mung bean crepe topped with butter roasted carrot, soy braised jackfruit and pickled jicama for plenty of crunch. Personally I prefer the crispy deep-fried original, but this is likely to be appreciated by the more health-conscious.
But the Manam’s House Crispy Sisig. Dear Lord, the sisig. This beloved national culinary treasure originally from Papanga – and one of the best sellers at Manam – comes all sizzling and popping exactly the way you’d expect, each chopped piece pork jowl and cheek oozing juices and flavour. Bits of spring onion, garlic and chilli – along with a hint of vinegar – helps cut through the grease. You’ll want plenty of rice with this.
Another classic Filipino dish, the adobe, gets the luxe treatment. Here the Midnight Adobo is made with grass-fed New Zealand wagyu bone-in short rib, a fabulously rich yet slighty tangy stew that will give the best beef bourguignon in town a run for its money.
Likewise the sinigang. The Manam’s Wagyu & Watermelon Sinigang comes as a broth laden with flavoursome goodness, bursting with greens and even charred watermelon for a more refreshing take.
We can go on. But the dishes at hayop speak for themselves and need tasting to be believed.
be warned: hayop comes at Singapore CBD – not even Metro Manila – prices. A proper meal here can set you back a bit. But what you’ll get is a hearty, robust gastronomic deep-dive into everything that makes Filipino cuisine tick.
It’s ang sarap all over. Come join all the awestruck faces.
[Photo credit: hayop]
hayop
Address 104 Amoy St, Singapore 069924 (Google Maps link)
Opening Hours 5pm to 9.30pm on Tuesdays to Saturdays; closed on Mondays and Sundays
Tel (65) 8028 9012
Web hayopnimanam.com
Instagram @hayop.sg
Reservations book here
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