Enso Steakhouse redefines the New York steakhouse experience by seamlessly blending robust American classics with refined Japanese precision.
One of the latest fine dining additions to Singapore’s burgeoning gastronomic scene is Enso Steakhouse, part of newly-opened sky-high, multi-concept dining and entertainment destination C.O.T.U..
The massive C.O.T.U. complex – comprising cocktail bar Little Birdie, jazz lounge The Whisper Room, ultra lounge Dashi-Go-Go, rooftop pool venue Dashi Sky Pool, and Enso – perched atop CapitaGreen in Singapore’s Central Business District promises to spark new energy into the Lion City, but we’re really only interested in the steakhouse.
Or at least I am.
To get to Enso Steakhouse you’ll first pass by Little Birdie, which you will see when you first enter the complex. The bar in the centre of the intimate cocktail space beckons for a drink. Eyes on the prize, but I suppose a little pitstop couldn’t hurt.
Two cocktails in, we finally head for our goal.
Enso Steakhouse is contemporarily-appointed, presented in mostly in neutral tones of brown and cream, flourished with gold accents. The ripple mirrored ceiling and suspended blue-speckled sculptures provide pleasing structural contrast. Camel-coloured leather banquettes dot the L-shaped restaurant, with artfully innocuous placement of pampas in between tables providing an illusory hint of privacy.
Being located in one of Singapore’s newest buildings means the restaurant is naturally biophilic, with full floor-to-ceiling windows that offer a fantastic view of the Singapore cityscape while natural light dapple its interiors during the day.
Enso Steakhouse, we are told, is positioned as a modern interpretation of the classic New York steakhouse with Japanese sensibilities. The kitchen is helmed by Chef Alex Craciun, a Romanian who’ve cut his teeth in some of the best restaurants in London under famous chefs such as Gordon Ramsay and Jason Atherton. Craciun has also worked kitchens in Japan, including Kyoto’s Kikunoi as well as RyuGin in Tokyo, both of which are three-Michelin-starred.
He puts all that experience to good use here, showcasing a menu that combines hearty American-style steaks and dainty Japanese appetisers with equal aplomb.
And so – pardon the pun – we order.
Now we wouldn’t normally recommend filling up on with carbs at a steakhouse, given our preference to save stomach capacity for meat. But we’d be remiss not to mention Enso’s signature Salmon & Akami & Chutoro, one of its signature pressed sushi options. Think of an opulent open-face sushi roll, which comes as fatty hand-chopped fish layered upon pressed sushi rice and crispy nori tempura topped with avocado mousse. This is a literal explosion of texture and flavours in the mouth.
Or Bread & Butter, Enso’s delightfully fluffy and airy housemade sourdough with a thin crust and fluffy inside that had us wishing for another bite.
But if carbs are the enemy, protein is our friend. And Enso doesn’t disappoint. Its Wagyu Beef Tartare, for example, while piles on the luxury with ikura and truffle. And if fat’s fine too, the steakhouse standard of Charcoal Roasted Bone Marrow here is given an unusual twist with a sweet, sour and spicy tamarind and serrano chili glaze, which works perfectly to cut through the rich, luscious beef marrow.
But the star of the show here is undoubtedly steak.
Enso Steakhouse offers a huge variety of cuts that are dry-aged – ranging from 35 to 55 days – in their on-site ageing room, which you can espy as you wind your way from the lift lobby to the dining room. Primarily sourced from Australian butcheries, you’ll be spoiled for choice not just with the classic cuts of ribeye, striploin and tenderloin, but also secondary cuts like hanger, skirt and bavette.
And if you can’t decide? Chef’s Tasting allows you to sample 120g each of the Japanese rice-fed A4 Kagoshima ribeye, 350 day grain-fed MB5-7 wagyu Australian Striploin (W.Black) and 200 day grain-fed Australian Angus Hanger Steak (Stockyard), all expertly grilled to the perfect doneness.
All the red meat making you feel less than virtuous about your diet? Round out your mains with the sublime Broccoli Tempura that had even the veggie-deniers among us raving, or Grilled Maitake Mushrooms for some healthy polyphenols.
Is there still space in Singapore’s ultra-competitive dining landscape for yet another steakhouse? Based on what I experienced, the answer is yes.
And now, perhaps another cocktail at Little Birdie on the way out.
Enso Steakhouse
Address 138 Market St, Level 38-02 C.O.T.U @ CapitaGreen, Singapore 048946 (Google Maps link)
Opening Hours 11.30am to 2.30pm and 5.30pm to 10.30pm on Mondays to Fridays; 5.30pm to 10.30pm on Saturdays and Sundays
Tel (65) 6416 4800
Web www.cotu.co/enso-steakhouse
Facebook ensosteakhouse
Instagram @enso.steakhouse
Reservations book here
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