Contemporary fine-dining restaurant Sensu on Keong Saik Road leans on Japanese sensibilities and European traditions for an unconventional dining experience.
The F&B and nightlife enclave that is Keong Saik Road may somewhat be in the doldrums today compared to its halcyon days pre-COVID, but a smattering of recent new additions to the stretch are looking to change that. Among them? Elegant fine-dining establishment Sensu.
Sensu’s cuisine is best defined as Japanese-style omakase that borrows heavily from French traditions. It isn’t exactly ground-breaking – we’ve seen many similar concepts in recent years – but at least Sensu adds some refreshing own touches. Executive Chef Shang Jhi previously honed his craft at MICHELIN-starred institutions such as Joel Robuchon in both Singapore and Macau, as well as Les Amis, JAAN and (the now sadly shuttered) La Dame De Pic, and here he combines that wealth of experience for his own unique approach.
The space itself is stunning, the way most fine-dining Japanese omakase restaurants are. Upon entering your eyes will first be drawn to the intricate handcrafted latticed wooden screen displayed on one flank of the main dining room, before turning to the beautiful L-shaped 12-seater marbled bar counter behind which is the open-kitchen where Chef Shang Jhi and his team meticulously prepares your dishes. There’s an intimate private room for six diners behind as well, for those who prefer to dine more exclusively.
As with such concepts, you’re encouraged to experience its tasting menu. We tried the ‘Seasonal Chef’s Tasting Menu’ which unfolded with graceful precision much like the traditional Japanese folding fan the restaurant is named for. But there’s also an a la carte menu if you prefer to cherry-pick and compose your own meals.
We were surprised to see Uni & Sakura Ebi Capellini. Sakura ebi pasta, after all, used to appear on every cafe menu a few years back, as it made for a relatively low-effort but high-margin food item when using standard quality ingredients. Sensu’s version is decidedly opulent, and not just because of the generous topping of uni. The lemon confit that dresses the noodle strands made all the difference, imparting an assertive citrusy, perfumed essence that highlighted the sweetness of the seafood.
Then there was a fantastic Winter Black Truffle Tart. It arrived at the table as two components: an egg confit with sweet pear onion compote, bacon and onion foam, and a wafer-thin layer of pastry with slices of black truffle. You’re expected to break a piece of the pastry and then eat it together with the egg confit. While a little finicky to eat, the flavours and textures of the combination are spot-on. This dish alone is an absolute delight, and in our opinion defines Sensu.
Perfect for pairing with a drink or two, Sensu’s Sakura Ebi Fritter is an addictive crisp cracker of crunchy tiny shrimp with garlic aioli and shiso flowers to help balance the strong flavour of the shrimp.
Or how about the unlikely Black Truffle Chicken Wings, which for all intents and purposes looks like the standard Japanese stuffed chicken wing gyoza. But instead of typical minced meat and shrimp, Chef Shang Jhi stuffs the wings with sticky rice speckled through with black truffle. It’s fun, though not life-changing.
Otherwise there’s the Ultimate Crispy Kisu Fish, a complete indulgence of battered and deep fried whiting that comes topped with N25 caviar, and doused with a champagne beurre blanc and lobster emulsion that was delicious but unfortunately overwhelmed the delicately light and flaky fish.
Another surprise came in the form of Seafood Paella, an unusual find in such an establishment. Sensu’s take on the classic Spanish dish sees shades of Japanese donabe with the use of Japanese short grain rice instead of the more traditional bomba arroz, that comes topped with carabinero prawns, crispy baby squid battered like calamari, and chorizo. The layer of rice is intentionally kept incredibly thin, maximising the much-desired crunchy and flavourful soccarat bottom which arguably is the best part of any paella.
While the contemporary European-inflected Japanese fine-dining arena it plays in is crowded and extremely competitive, Sensu does just enough to set itself apart from its peers. Whether it can help rejuvenate the ailing Keong Saik stretch remains to be seen.
[Image credits: Sensu]
Sensu
Address 27 Keong Saik Rd., Singapore 089134 (Google Maps link)
Opening Hours 612pm to 2.30pm and 6pm to 10.30pm Tuesdays to Saturdays; closed on Sundays and Mondays
Web www.restaurantsensu.sg
Instagram @restaurantsensu.sg
Reservations book here
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