Fiamma at Capella Singapore offers an Italian taste of Michelin-starred Argentine chef Mauro Colagreco’s childhood.

Capella Singapore’s new flagship restaurant may be fronted by a multiple award-winning chef, but don’t expect the kind of cuisine that won him his three Michelin stars. We’re talking about Fiamma, the latest concept from Italian-Argentine chef and restaurateur Mauro Colagreco, he of Mirazur fame.

If you’ve not heard of Colagreco, you’re probably not a gastrophile. When his restaurant Mirazur in Menton in the French Riviera was awarded its third Michelin star in 2019, it marked the first time in Michelin Guide history that a restaurant in France run by a foreign chef garnered that top accolade. That same year Mirazur also landed the best restaurant in the world title by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, elevating it into the award competition’s Hall of Fame too, no less.

Mauro Colagreco
Award-winning chef Mauro Colagreco of three Michelin-starred Mirazur.

But unlike Mirazur, Fiamma at luxury resort hotel Capella Singapore doesn’t offer the same modern European fine dining flourishes that won Colagreco those awards. Instead, you’ll be treated to the flavours of his childhood.

Which is Italian. And not of the fine-dining sort. Colagreco was inspired by his immigrant family’s Italian roots, particularly the nostalgic flavours of his grandmother’s home cooking. Just slightly elevated, of course.

And like every proper Italian meal, there’s a goodly spread here.

You’ll do well to start off with the indulgent Pizza Tartufo, a proper Neapolitan-style pie topped off with smoked Scarmoza, Tuscan salami, and a liberal amount of shaved black truffle. But hold off on your second slice, because of what’s to come.

Fiamma - Carpaccio di Pomodoro e Pesca
Our favourite dish at Fiamma was the Carpaccio di Pomodoro e Pesca, which ironically needed little or no flame in its making.

Fiamma’s antipasta game is strong. The Crudo Siciliana of thinly-sliced seabream carpaccio, marinated in mint-infused olive oil and orange juice and then topped off with chopped pistachios, is a veritable taste of Sicily and its renowned produce. More experimental is the Crudo di Gambero, which features thinly sliced raw – and creamily sweet – Mediterranean red prawns dressed simply with kumquat and pea shoots. But the star antipasti is the Carpaccio de Pomodoro e Pesca, a beautiful dish of very thinly-sliced tomato and peach, accentuated by a lively ginger-accented vinaigrette. This tastes like a lovely Italian summer.

We eyed the Polpette – traditional Italian meatballs – but decided some restraint was in order. Instead we availed ourselves of the Tagliatelle All’Astice, a simple pasta dish of the al-dente flat noodle lightly dressed in sauce and topped with some lobster meat. Some confit cherry tomatoes add acidity, while tarragon imbues a slight anise note to balance any richness.

Fiamma Pescato del Giorno
Fish of the day.

For mains, seafood lovers need to order the Pescato del Giorno. This is fish of the day, so what appears can differ day to day depending on what Capella Singapore can source. It is then cooked ‘alla Ligure’, which is in the Genovese style borrowed from coastal Liguria in northwest Italy. Pesce alla Ligure sees fish served up with a variety of other ingredients, typically tomatoes, potatoes, olives, and artichokes. Here Fiamma serves all these up as a fish casserole made with chunky sea bass, a hearty and robust stew that accentuates the flavours of the fish.

Fun fact: Argentina’s Buenos Aires (where Colagreco was born) has a colourful neighbourhood called La Boca settled by many Italian immigrants. It owes its name to the Boccadasse district in Genoa, Liguria which, we suspect, heavily influenced Colagreco’s childhood. And, we’re almost sure, this fabulous dish at Fiamma.

Fiamma - Tiramisu
Save space for dessert. You’ve been warned.

Less impressive is the Bistecca alla Fiorentina, which ironically for a venue named for ‘flame’ in Italian, needed more sear on the meat for a proper char.

We rather you save some space for dessert. Fiamma’s Tiramisu is one of the better versions we’ve had in recent time, with a proper balance of espresso-soaked biscuit, mascarpone, and Amaretto liqueur. Also good is the Meringa Cotta, the slow-baked meringue chewy sweet, juxtaposed with a luxurious vanilla cream and a tangy berry sauce.

Fiamma may be nothing like Mirazur. But it’s still an incisive insight into Colagreco’s life and upbringing. Fiamma is Colagreco’s personal invite to his memories of home and hearth, a space he’s modelled after raucous Sunday family dinner affairs that Nonna has slaved over.

Benvenuti.


Fiamma

Address 1 The Knolls, Capella Singapore, Singapore 098297 (Google Maps link)
Opening Hours 12pm to 10pm daily
Tel (65) 6591 5046
Web https://capellahotels.com/en/capella-singapore/dining/fiamma
Facebook fiamma.singapore
Instagram @fiamma.singapore

 

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